We have written two articles, one showing how to check model numbers, and the other one showing how to check serial numbers of Rolex Watches. However, to check the serial number and reference numbers of the Rolex watches you need to know how to remove the bracelet. Since a customer recently requested instructions on how to detach a Rolex bracelet from its case, we thought it would be a good idea to write an article about it. The only tool you will need is a pin pusher (pictures 1-A and 1-B) which you can find at any local shop that sells watch accessories and parts or you may also find it online at Amazon. There are two types of watch cases on Rolex watches: one with holes on the side and one without holes. The newest Rolex models will come without holes on the side of the case.

Pin pusher (1-A)

Pin pusher (1-B)

On the case of the case with holes you start by putting the watch on your hand holding it on your middle finger, thumb on the back case and with the index finger applying force upward (picture 2-A). You will then insert the pin pusher inside the hole and press firmly while still applying force upward with middle finger (pictures 2-B and 2-C). Once the pin comes off (picture 2-D) you will repeat the process to the other side of the case (picture 2-E), as well to other end of the case.

2-A

2-B

2-C

2-D

2-E

The newer style cases is a similar process you will again by putting the watch on your hand holding it on your middle finger, thumb on the back case and with the index finger applying force upward (picture 2-A). You will then insert the pin pusher on the end piece right next to the lug (picture 3-A). You will then push the pin inward, it will slide and come off (picture 3-B). You will repeat the same process for the other side as well as to the other end of the case.

3-A

3-B

After removing the bracelet you can check the serial number between the lugs at 6 o’clock or model number at 12 o’clock . Once you are done you will want to put the bracelet and case back together. To put the bracelet back together it is done the same way for both types of cases (holes, or no holes). You will start by holding the case on your index finger and middle finger. You will put the end of the bracelet on top of the lugs and apply force on the end piece with the thumb (picture 4-A). With the other hand you will use the pin pusher to press the pin inward and slide in until it fits into place (picture 4-B). You will then repeat the same process for the other side as well the other end of the bracelet.

4-A

4-B

A watch with a retrograde display shows time in a linear way instead of the circular way like most watches. The hand moves along an arc until it reaches the end of the arc, when it does  it automatically resets to the beginning of the arch. In the photos below we are able to see a Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Jours Retrogrades that shows the days of the week in retrograde display, and a Roger Dubuis Double Tourbillon showing the minutes in its retrograde display.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Jours Retrogrades

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is without doubt one of the most popular Rolex Watches, and among the most popular in the sports luxurious genre. It is characterized for being a watch targeted specifically to Divers due to its high resistance to water. The model was first seen in 1953 with the reference number 6204, a bidirectional Bezel, a thin case, and a small sized shoulder-less screw-down crown. The model 6205 was also manufactured at the time and both watches are nearly identical. One interesting detail on these two models is that most of the time you would not see the word Submariner imprinted on the face. Sometimes you would see the brand Submariner, however it was not a consistent branding at the time. In 1954 Rolex presented  its sequel, Ref 6538, also known as the James Bond model  immortalized by Sean Connery. It used a caliber 1030 movement, and the first Rolex bidirectional rotor movement, and an oversized crown.
In 1959  and in 1962  the Submariner 5512 and 5513, respectively, were presented  as the first models with shoulders to protect the crown. Those changes marked how the watch would look in the following years.  In 1969 the Submariner Date Ref 1680, still with its acrylic crystal was first seen. In 1979 was presented for the first time The Rolex Submariner with Sapphire crystal and an outstanding waterproof rating of 300 meters. The 16800 “Sub”, 40 mm, with movement caliber 3035 is the watch that we  well know today. The “Sub”as we call it, revolutionized how a sports watch should look and feel. Moreover, apart from small changes in recent years such as the trip-lock system and Cerachrom disc, it is pretty much the same watch we saw in 1979 that we love so much for so many years.

Rolex Submariner 6204

Rolex Submariner 6538

Rolex Submariner 5512

Rolex Submariner 1680

Rolex Submariner 16800

2010 Rolex Submariner

We all know that Sapphire Crystal is harder than Glass, however it does have a higher index of refraction which makes it more light reflective. This of course hinders reading the time. For that reason watch manufactures apply anti-reflaction coatings that get rid of the problem. More than one transparent thin layers create a destructive interference between waves hence almost bringing reflective light to zero. While most watch manufacturers apply reflective coating only to the inside part of the crystal, it can applied to the outside as well. The advantage of applying outside is that reflection approximates more to under 1% reflection while only one side is more around 5%. There are few brands such as Breitling watches and Dubey & Schaldenbrand that prefer coating on both sides. The disadvantage of applying coating on both sides is that with time the outside part of the sapphire crystal may appear to be scratched. In reality it is the coating that is scratched giving a bad appearance. The only way to fix that problem is to polish the the crystal, removing the antireflection altogether.

Breitling Navitimer with Anti-Reflective Coating

Maurice lacroix is a relative new company considering they started in 1990, yet they managed to be on top of the league in no time. Their watch designs and quality have been recognized in the industry with unique timepieces such as the Memoire 1 concept watch introduced in 2008. However we are not here today to talk about the Memoire 1 but to talk about the Masterpiece Phase de Lune, which is a classy watch with incredible personality. The watch is fitted on a 40 mm case and a beautiful guilloche dial. The face is divided in inner circles, three to be more precise. The outer circle displays the time with the roman numerals. The second inner circle on top of the time is to display the date which is well marked with the smallest hand of the watch. The last inner circle displays on top with two small windows the day of the week, and the month respectively, and on the bottom the moonphase. Easily seen with its see-thru back, inside the watch there is a marvelous movement Maurice Lacroix Caliber ML 37 (base ETA 2824-2) with 25 jewels. Not missing out on details the movement is decorated by hand. The watch comes in stainless steel, stainless steel and rose gold, and all rose gold. They retail for $7600, $9900 and $19500 respectively.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Phase de Lune

The Calendar disc of the watch displays the date and in some cases the weekday, month, and year. However, the regular calendar watches do not take into account different lengths of the months making the user need to reset the date 5 times a year when the month does not end on the 31^st . The Perpetual calendar automatically make adjustments for different lengths of each month as well as leap years until the year 2100. Usually the perpetual calendar shows the date, month, day of the week and in most cases the moonphase. These type of watches carry big mechanical complications making these watches highly desirable luxury items.

Breitling Bentley Mark VI Perpetual Calendar