We all know that Sapphire Crystal is harder than Glass, however it does have a higher index of refraction which makes it more light reflective. This of course hinders reading the time. For that reason watch manufactures apply anti-reflaction coatings that get rid of the problem. More than one transparent thin layers create a destructive interference between waves hence almost bringing reflective light to zero. While most watch manufacturers apply reflective coating only to the inside part of the crystal, it can applied to the outside as well. The advantage of applying outside is that reflection approximates more to under 1% reflection while only one side is more around 5%. There are few brands such as Breitling watches and Dubey & Schaldenbrand that prefer coating on both sides. The disadvantage of applying coating on both sides is that with time the outside part of the sapphire crystal may appear to be scratched. In reality it is the coating that is scratched giving a bad appearance. The only way to fix that problem is to polish the the crystal, removing the antireflection altogether.
Maurice lacroix is a relative new company considering they started in 1990, yet they managed to be on top of the league in no time. Their watch designs and quality have been recognized in the industry with unique timepieces such as the Memoire 1 concept watch introduced in 2008. However we are not here today to talk about the Memoire 1 but to talk about the Masterpiece Phase de Lune, which is a classy watch with incredible personality. The watch is fitted on a 40 mm case and a beautiful guilloche dial. The face is divided in inner circles, three to be more precise. The outer circle displays the time with the roman numerals. The second inner circle on top of the time is to display the date which is well marked with the smallest hand of the watch. The last inner circle displays on top with two small windows the day of the week, and the month respectively, and on the bottom the moonphase. Easily seen with its see-thru back, inside the watch there is a marvelous movement Maurice Lacroix Caliber ML 37 (base ETA 2824-2) with 25 jewels. Not missing out on details the movement is decorated by hand. The watch comes in stainless steel, stainless steel and rose gold, and all rose gold. They retail for $7600, $9900 and $19500 respectively.
The Calendar disc of the watch displays the date and in some cases the weekday, month, and year. However, the regular calendar watches do not take into account different lengths of the months making the user need to reset the date 5 times a year when the month does not end on the 31st . The Perpetual calendar automatically make adjustments for different lengths of each month as well as leap years until the year 2100. Usually the perpetual calendar shows the date, month, day of the week and in most cases the moonphase. These type of watches carry big mechanical complications making these watches highly desirable luxury items.
The Rolex Day-Date is synonymous with success. When one thinks of a luxurious gold watch that portrays status, perhaps the first watch to come to mind is the Rolex Day-Date. The first Rolex Day-Date was first introduced in 1956, and as the name implies it’s characterized as the only Rolex model to display the day of the week and date. This timepiece is most known as the Rolex President by most people, which in reality is a misconception. The reason why most people call Day-Date president is because the president bracelet was created specifically for this model, however the model is also available with the Oyster bracelet. The Rolex Day-Date is only available in precious metals, being Platinum, Yellow Gold, White Gold, and Rose Gold. It is also fitted with a 36mm case, very similar to the Datejust case. The special edition is available in a 39 mm case, and the new model of Rolex Day-Date, Day-Date II released in 2008 is 41mm in width. Unlike the Day-Date and Day-Date special edition, the Rolex Day-Date II is only available with Rolex President bracelet. The widespread popularity of the Rolex Day-Date is clearly shown today by calendar discs being made in 26 languages including Japanese, Chinese, and Latin.
The Earth is divided in 12 time zones also known as meridians. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, which is used as the time zone 0 in the Universal time. In the watch business a GMT Watch implies that the watch displays a second time zone or a 24-hour indication. This is useful for people who travel a lot. Without doubt the most known GMT watch is the Rolex GMT Master II.
Roger Dubuis is known for making watches of the highest quality. This Watch presented today on the Spotlight is not an exception. The Excalibur Double Tourbillon reference EX45 01 9 N1.67A uses Roger Dubuis in house movement, every single component is made at Roger Dubuis like all their movements. The movement is a manually wound, caliber RD01 with 52 jewels, and houses a 1 minute Flying Double Tourbillon with Differential Gear. The case is heavy and has a lot of detail on its finish. On the case back for example you have the RD emblem nicely printed all over. There are also three see through back holes, two for seeing the tourbillon cages, and the one on top for the power reserve display. The crown features a beautiful crown guard that encapsulates it and gives the appearance of having a bigger crown. You can have access to the crown by flipping up the crown guard. The dial is made of mother of pearl and displays the the two tourbillons. On top of the face you have the retrograde minute function. It counts the minutes from 0 to 60, once it reaches to 60 it resets to 0. The crocodile leather band has a stainless steel deployment buckle engraved “RD” in the middle and “Roger Dubuis”. This timepiece is a limited edition of 280 pieces and retails for approximately $183,000.